The Frankfurt Files (I): King Kamehameha Suite*

Not only since the recent financial crisis eating out and especially fine dining has been very difficult in Frankfurt. Why one is tempted to ask? In a city (previously) full of wealthy investment bankers, consultants and the like one would think of plenty of money pouring into gastronomy which in turn could lead to an increase in food quality on average. It turns out that in fact prices are (still) very high on the one star level (about €110 for 5-7 courses for what you get a nice “small” menu at most of the three star places) and the average quality below the starred restaurants is generally perceived as quite poor – some exemptions will be covered in separate later post….

Reasons? I can only suspect that the normal Frankfurt fine diner is more of a business client who wants a decent lunch or dinner and is not that much interested in breathtaking experiences which could interrupt the flow of business. One piece of evidence is that three of the one star places are closed on the weekend (Erno’s Bistro, Francais, Villa Merton). Only outside of Frankfurt, about 20 mins south, Juan Amador has successfully established a high-end restaurant now carrying three stars.

Frankfurt Skyline

In this year’s Michelin Frankfurt was the city with the most new stars, namely. After years of waiting, Patrick Bittner of Francais at the Steigenberger Frankfurer Hof received his first star. Alfred Friedrich, former chef de cuisine at Winkler’s Residenz in Aschau (the a three star place, this year demoted to two), expectably got a star for his cooking at Zarges. Last, but not least, Alan Ogden surprisingly got first Michelin flowers… After having recently visited all three places I will portrait each in a series of smaller posts. The first one will be really short due to a real kitchen disaster:-(

The Restaurant King Kamehameha Suite (now called next level after the refurbishment in January 09)

Wait, what is this name? Ever watched Tom Selleck in Magnum P.I. in the 80s with his Ferrari? Remember the club he used to hang out with his buddies? Right, this was the King Kamehameha named after a Hawaiian King. In 1998, the King Kamehameha was opened in Frankfurt in former industrial area as club with a small upstairs restaurant. It is still a hot spot, but I am too old for the crowd now;-)

In 2007 then the Suite was opened in-midst of Frankfurt near the Alte Oper in the former Frankfurt headquarter of the insurer Allianz. A quite breathtaking location as it really carries the spirit of an old bourgeois insurance company onward. In this new setting you find a big hallway with one bar, an atrium restaurant and two larger rooms connected where the “cool” crowd gathers for drinks after work and later.

The fine dining restaurant is located side-by-side with these two bar rooms, not really separated by a wall or something. So, if the crowd gets excited and the music louder one is kind of disturbed because you feel like eating in a busy hall of a main station.

Fine Dining Interior

The Chef

Alan Ogden has been sous-chef at Ingo Holland’s Altes Rentamt in Klingenberg am Main. Holland is the authority in spices in Germany – he quit being a chef in 2007 and now dedicates his time towards his spice business (“Altes Gewürzamt”) and some cooking demonstrations. The Rentamt cuisine was quite rustic with one spice giving the theme for a course. Awarded one star and 18 points this is quite some background for a young aspiring chef.

Still spices play an important part in Ogdens cuisine and some even say that he masters the interplay between the products and the spices better than his master…

The Menu

Entering the restaurant we had never seen it that full before – so the Michelin star awarded just the Wednesday before did attract some people. The greeting by the very young service brigade was nice but not too welcoming. We decided to take the big degustation menu and were served some not really noteworthy amuse.

As a first course we got a very weird interpretation of tuna – maybe one of the driest courses I have ever had. The tuna was “seasoned” with paradise pepper which gives some texture but also too much spiciness. Accompanied by three pieces of beetroot and a salad this is hardly a dish I would cook at home. Well, if the tuna had been of outstanding quality I wouldn’t complain that much. But this was a complete failure in presentation, execution, product quality and, most importantly, in conception.

Tuna with paradise pepper and beetroot

After taking a deep breath we thought this was a singular event and hoped for the next courses. We waited, waited, waited and nothing happened for quite some time. But, wait, we witnesses a very rare spectacle in fine dining. People on other tables started complaining about the long waiting times, some stood up and just left. It was just before a riot, hilarious – like in a bad movie, but there was no hidden camera. After 40 or so minutes I cancelled all starters and said that either they bring the main or we leave.

The main – I didn’t take pictures nor notes any more. Surprisingly it arrived after several minutes – a veal dish in variations, but absolutely sub star standard. Enjoyable, however and conceptually sound. As we were still quite hungry we opted for a dessert which was good but I can’t remember it.

I wanted to talk to the chef but he didn’t come out. The service brigade didn’t handle it too well – they basically said that they took too many reservations and the kitchen was not able to handle it – on a Saturday evening. Also they promised that Mr Ogden would get in touch with me afterwards which never happened. Apologies – they took off the qute cheap wine and the dessert, charged the courses with a la carte prices and we were off with a bill beyond 200€. Judge for yourself.

Hard to give a recommendation on this as this was my first and also last visit. I talked with some other foodies who have been there and were also disappointed. So, for a serious foodie this is a place to avoid as there is a clear downside potential. After the refurbishment in January and the “relaunch” as “next level” restaurant one has to see whether they can finally deliver up the high level of a Michelin starred place. For us, on that particular Saturday night, they did not even try.

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Possibly related posts: (automatically generated)

• Christian Jürgens – Update (July 2009)
• Alain Ducasse regains crown as most-starred chef
• Sick of hearing about it yet?
• Michelin Guide Releases 2010 New York Edition